India never ceases to amaze me and after having explored Arunachal pradesh on our bikes,my amazement has grown multiple folds. The seed to go to Arunachal pradesh for 2014 was planted in our head during our last year trip to Nepal and Sikkim. Even though the plans saw its ups and down, we really worked through all the odds and made the trip itinerary, got the tickets booked etc. really last minute. And finally we started to Kolkata by Train on 8th of December
#Kolkata
This is an old city of trams, the yellow taxis and the ruined buildings. As our bikes were delivered here and we had to leave for Guwahati as soon as possible, we couldn't explore much of Kolkata but it would had been a shame had we not tried the fish and sweets of Kolkata
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| The legendary yellow taxis |
#Places to see
There are many places to visit in Kolkata starting from temples to victoria hall etc. In our itinerary the only place we could squeeze in was Howrah Bridge
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| Busy Howrah bridge |
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| Combo of yellow taxi and Howrah bridge |
#Stay
In Kolkata, men and women are not allowed to stay in a room in almost all the hotels but we could find one below average hotel named Balaji Lodge on Howrah ground for INR 1000 after bargaining.
#Food
The Maxi thala, Bhetki Paturi at Bhojohori Manna. The thali is amazing with many different vegetables. Bhetki Paturi is the fish which was really yummy too. Must have are the mishti dahi and Aam mishti dahi and rasmalai if you have sweet tooth like me. |
| Food at Bhojohori Manna |
#Roads ( Kolkata - Malda)
The road to Malda is decent for a long stretch but after that it gets difficult to ride with lot of trucks and traffic jam. This day we covered around 360 km.
#Malda
This was a stop over for us from Kolkata. Apparently Malda is the place where Malda variety of mangoes are grown.
#Stay
Hotel green view, Malda for INR 500.
#Road (Malda - Alipurduar)
Most part of the road is full of pot holes and yet again long stretches of trucks stuck in jams otherwise roads are smooth and decent. This day we rode around 340 Km
#Alipurduar
This was our next stop to rest for the night
#Stay
Like last year we wanted to stay at Madham guest house but it was not available so we stayed in Om lodge for INR 900
#Food
Below Madham guest house there is a sweet shop where you get Poori Aloo and the sweets here are not to be missed no matter what. All the sweets are very tasty and absolutely inexpensive.
#Roads
From Alipurduar to Guwahati roads are very nice and smooth. This day we covered around 300 Km
#Guwahati
Finally we reached Guwahati where the 3rd rider met us after renting his bike from Destination motors
# Bike Rent Contact details:
Imtiaz, Odeon # 217,MRD Road,Baminimaidan, Opp. Govt .Press Bus Stop,Guwahati-21,Assam
Mobile Number: 9864040698, 9957740698
#Permits
Also, you can get permits for Arunachal pradesh here in Guwahati at Deputy Residence Commissioner, Government of Arunachal Pradesh, R.G. Baruah Road, Guwahati-781021.
You can apply online as well at http://www.arunachalilp.com/onlineApp.do
The permit office is closed in weedends. On weekdays, the office is open from 9 am to 5 pm. We reached the office on a Friday at 5 pm. The officer asked us to come the next day at 10 am. We should have expected that we will land up giving extra money as he was doing us a favour. In general, a permit costs 30 rupees but he asked us to pay INR 200 for a permit.Since we had no other option, we had to pay and get the permits.
#Places to visit
Most of our time went in getting the rented bike fixed according to our comfort and getting the permits done hence we couldn't visit any place in Guwahati.
Though there are many places to visit in Guwahati. One place which was told not to be missed is Kamakhya temple.
#Stay
Sai Kirpa Inn for INR 1500 with breakfast included though the breakfast was not good.
Hotel Rudraksha Inn Dr Bhabendra Nath Saikia Path, A.G. Bus Stop, Opposite To SBI, Maidamgaon, Krishnapur, Beltola Guwahati, Assam 781029 for INR 1400.
#Food
There are many places where you can get local Assamese food
Note:
- Plan in advance and be very careful about your dates on permits.
- Permits needs to be taken separately for Tawang, Itanagar and Tezu
- If you plan to go Walong and Kibithu, take permits for Anjaw district as it is now not a part of Tezu. Since we didnt know that, we just took permits for Tezu but somehow managed to go to Anjaw.
#Roads ( Guwahati - Kaziranga)
The roads are very nice except once you are in Jungle area of Kaziranga , you are supposed to ride at 40km/hour speed as there are chances of animals crossing the roads. This day we covered around 193 km
#Kaziranga
Kaziranga National park: It is a world heritage site and can not be missed if you are in Assam.
#Stay
Rhino guest house for INR 1000 but there are many other guest houses that are available. During peak season it is difficult to find place in government guest houses.
#Place to visit
Kaziranga National park elephant Safari: It's an experience in itself to do the elephant safari. During this safari you pass by jungle and go much more closer to the animals but this is for a shorter route. Generally on an elephant 4-5 people sit.The elephant safari is INR 500 per person. You have to book the previous day itself for the safari. If you are not going in person to book the safari then the person who is booking on your behalf needs your photo id xerox. Based on the given slot you need to be available at the assembling point at either 5:30 am or 6:30 am next day.
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| Us the selfie stick and the elephant :p |
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| With our elephant at the back |
Kaziranga National park Jeep safari : The jeep safari is much longer and covers around 28 km of the park This need not really be booked in advance and is available more easily than elephant safari.
INR 1500 for jeep, INR 50 as entrance fee , INR 100 per camera, INR 300 for permit ,INR 100 for welfare society and INR 200 for the guide. The jeep comes and pick you at your hotel.
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| Jeep for safari outside our hotel |
Local handlooms: Thanks to our safari guide , we went to the local handloom in the village who makes very interesting clothes. Village weaves, Bocha gaon Mobile : 9854845253 ( RupJyoti saikia gogoi)
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| Handloom cloth being prepared |
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| The handloom worker who is our guide Dimpy's mom |
Mishing tribes: Yet again thanks to our guide Dimpy Deka, we could go to mishing tribe village, wear their local costumes , see their houses and talk to the locals.
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| Mishing Bahu :p |
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| Mishing houses |
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| Mishing village children |
#Food
Hornbill restaurant where we had our authentic Assamese meal which has too many varieties for your taste buds though the prices here are on the higher side.
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| Authentic Assamese food |
You can find many restaurants on the main Kaziranga road which serve similar food in almost similar budget.
Kaziranga - Bomdilla:
#Bomdila
Bomdila was also a stop over en route to Tawang though it has few monasteries which could be visited. You can also buy gloves, gum boots etc.Will be very much needed for crossing the snow covered Sela Pass
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| En route to Bomdila |
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| The trio |
Bomdila Monastery
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| Bomdila |
#Stay
Hotel Samurai for INR 500 per night. If your budget allows there are double occupancy rooms available in Tsepal Yangjom which are luxury rooms for INR 2000 per night.
#Food
There are many restaurants which offer parantha sabji, eggs , thukpa, momos etc.
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| For our sweet tooth |
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| Dhivakar's favorite |
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| This is what you get here :)...Everywhere |
Bomdila to Senge
We started from Bomdila and just after 10kms, one of our bikes got punctured. Took a lot of time to find a puncture shop and got it fixed. It was later afternoon by the time we started again.
Against our plan to reach Tawang the same day, locals discouraged us as Sela pass was full of snow and riding in the night would have been risky than adventurous hence we stopped over at Senge.
#Senge
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| Sela Pass view |
The place has a small monastery which offers a beautiful view.
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| Senge Monastery view from our hotel |
#Stay
We stayed at Dzongrila rest house. Locals call it as IB which is Inspection Bungalow for mere INR 300.
The only place to stay in Senge is at this IB. You can contact the care taker Mr. N K Singh at 09436256306.
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| N K Singh and us |
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| IB at Senge |
#Food
The only food you can get in this village is in IB prepared by Mr. N K Singh. For the dinner we got rice, dal , egg and aloo sabji.
For the breakfast we were offered Maggi , Omlette and tea.
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| The view enroute Senge |
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| Selfie Enroute to Senge |
#Sela Pass
This was the most beautiful, challenging , amazing and breath taking part of the trip. Just few meters before Sela pass memorial the road was nice and pretty with amazing view. You cross the gate at the sela pass and suddenly the whole world had turned white.
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| Sela Pass - Snow and us and bikes |
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| Must I say anything? |
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| Information board |
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| In general loved the BRO boards |
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| My sincere gratitude to Indian Army - Jai Hind |
#Sela Lake: If you drive a bit further , you can see Sela Lake. In our case it was a frozen lake :)
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| Selfie at frozen Sela lake |
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| The lake and the route to walk around |
#Jaswanth Garh War memorial
En route to Tawang, after around 20 km of Snow covered mountains, lake and roads from Sela pass,we reached Jaswanthgarh war memorial where Army served us free tea and Samosa (2 pieces for INR 10). You can also buy some of the army stuff at the CSD canteen here.
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| Jai Hind |
Something which I learnt while riding in snow… You are bound to fall at some places so dont be afraid of falling. To avoid falling too often ride at 10 kmph and don't use brakes and if you do do it slowly with your legs already balanced on the road.
#Info
The next petrol pump after Bomdila is at Jang.
#Tawang
Our first real destination where we planned to stay for few days and check out the place was Tawang.
#Places to visit
Tawang Monastery: |
| Buddham Sharnam Gachami |
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| Before had seen this view only on internet |
War memorial: There is a war memorial in Tawang dedicated to 1962 war like a Buddhist Monastery which can also be visited
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| War memorial like a Monastery |
Bum la pass: To obtain permit for Bumla pass, the DC office opens at 10 am. Get the application from DC office. With the application give 4 copies of id proof and xerox of inner line permits.Once you submit the permit, you get it by afternoon 3 o’clock. This permit then you have to submit at the brigade office which is opposite to war memorial. In general, it takes INR 10 for the permit application n INR 10 per permit but if you plan to get it done through agents then they charge you INR 700. As we had bikes , riding around to DC office and Brigade’s office was not difficult. If you don't have your own vehicle then it could be little difficult as both the offices are located 5-6 Km far and in opposite sides of Tawang. Also, its better to have carry enough copies because in Tawang Xerox per copy is INR 5 and double side INR 10 and the power cut is frequent.
Also, if you plan to hire taxi for Bumla pass and Shungester/Madhuri lake then the permit needs to have taxi number and driver name. The general charges for taxi to Bumla pass n Shungester lake are INR 5000. You can try shared taxi if you can find people to share.
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| On the way to Bumla pass |
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| My biking mentor doing his stunts in snow |
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| The snow turning into ice |
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| The breath taking view |
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| Snow snow everywhere!! |
#Stay at Tawang
Hotel Mount view for INR 800.
#Food
Ama yangis good food Chapti n egg curry was nice.
#Info
Sunday mechanics are closed in Tawang and Bomdila so if there are any issues in your bike, you will not be able to get it fixed and this could alter your plan.
Tawang-Bomdila-Itanagar
#Itanagar
Itanagar is the capital of Arunanchal pradesh. Needless to say that you need an ILP to go to Itanagar. Our initial plan was to go to Ziro which some local people told us can be reached from Itanagar also. Hence we planned to stay in Itanagar though Itanagar as a destination had nothing attractive for us to see. Eventually we realized that to go to Ziro you have to come back to Bandardua and then go further straight up to reach Ziro. If you plan to visit Ziro, you NEED NOT go to Itanagar.
Also, Itanagar has Royal enfield show room so if you want to get your bike fixed you could do it here though there is a local mechanic available at Bandardua itself. He can be reached at 09706453315
#Stay
Hotel Kosing for INR 800. I must thank Rinching who helped us to find this hotel in Itanagar and helped us with lot of other informations.
Itanagar-Majuli
#Majuli Island
Our next destination was Majuli Island. Majuli Island is a large river island in the Brahamputra river. It is easily accessible from Jorhat but could also be reached from Itanagar side. From Itanagar, reach Bandardua and then go to Laluk which is a small village and go to the shore and take a ferry for INR 10 per person and INR 20 for each bike.
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| Ferry carrying cars and bikes |
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| Jugaad , I did the same to take my bike on and off Ferry |
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| Bamboo bridge made by locals ; You can ride your bike on it |
#Places to visit
There are multiple Hindu monastery in Majuli which you can go visit
Kamalbari satra
Mishing village
Mask making village
#Stay
Manjith Rishong has an amazing hotel named “Danny’s gum” with amazing food. You can get in touch with him at +919957186356.
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| Danny's gum |
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| The balcony at Danny's gum |
You could also try booking IB ( Inspection Bungalow) but that needs to be done in advance. You can send an email at sdocmajuli@gmail.com , 12 days in advance and must confirm 2 days before you plan to reach. Honestly speaking, I can’t confirm on the sound response from the SD office
#Food
We had our meals at Manjith’s restaurant though we didn’t miss trying sweets even at Majuli. You can get sweets at a local shop below the LIC office at Majuli main market.
Majuli - Dibrugarh
#Dibrugarh
From Majuli we crossed Brahmaputra and reached Jorhat. The road to the ferry from Majuli and to Jorhat from Ferry has atleast 10-20 km of sand road which is an amazing experience and would motivate you and prepare you for a trip to Rajasthan sand dunes :p ;). The Ferry will cost you INR 50 per person including bikes.
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| The sunset while crossing Brahmaputra river |
We rode from Jorhat to Dibrugarh after getting one of our bike fixed at Jorhat Royal enfield’s Acchar singh’s show room.
Yet again there is a local mechanic available who is much more efficient and very knowledgeable about bullets. You can reach him at 9678121309
#Places to Visit
There are many temples, local market and botanical garden to visit. The Brahamputra bank is always there for you to have a peaceful sunrise or sunset to see.
#Stay at Dibrugarh
Hotel Kettekee for INR 750. The room was huge and clean with hot water available to soothe our tired bodies.
#Food
The dinner at Kettekee was nice and simple though many restaurants are there in the local market.
We also tried breakfast here which was Poori , dal and egg that we didn't enjoy much so you could not be lazy like us and go out and eat something better.
Dibrugarh-Tezu
#Tezu
Next day after riding for the day, we reached Tezu in the night. The roads are nice and simple mountain roads.
You can get your bikes fixed in Tezu also by very skilled mechanic named Pappu. You can reach him at 9862955136. https://www.facebook.com/pappu.sah.7982?fref=ts
#Places to visit
Orange orchards
Parsuram Kund: Apparently, Parsuram washed his sins in the Lohit river so this place of quite a significance for Hindus and is really busy on 14th January.
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| Lohit river view from Bridge |
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| Parsuram Kund |
#Stay
Hotel Shivam for INR 900. In Tezu men and women would not be allowed to stay in same room so we took a double room for INR 600 and a single room for myself for INR 300. In the same hotel, there is a restaurant where we had our dinner and breakfast.
The dinner consisted of thali with rice, dal, vegetable and egg.
The breakfast was parantha and vegetable with eggs.
Many locals also suggested hotel Oshin but we couldn’t find a place there as it was fully occupied. You could try your luck there too as the rooms were cheaper there.
Tezu - Walong
#Walong
The next destination for us was Walong. The roads are mountainous with some skiddy patches and some muddy, slushy and stony patches otherwise the road is a smooth ride.
On the way, at one of the bridges where Anjaw district starts , one of our bikes decided to not start ever again and the locals helped us to get a truck, put the bike in and send it back to Tezu to get it fixed for mere INR 500. Thanks to the truck guy who was really kind and very helpful.
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| Anjaw district and my bike |
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| Lohit with his bike on truck ; all set to go back to Tezu |
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| Truck driver and the truck mechanic - Thank you so much |
#Places to visit
Lohit view: There is Lohit view en route from Tezu to Walong where you must stop by for a breathtaking view of Lohit river.
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| Lohit view |
I would say the whole Walong is a place to visit because you could be standing anywhere in this place and it offers gigantic mountains and river flowing with turquoise color water.
#Stay
IB at Walong is the only place where you can stay. Once you reach Walong, take a slight diversion on left side to go to the village and find IB. You can stay there for INR 200 per night
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| Bikes parked in IB at Walong |
#Food
Needless to say that the only place where you can get food is at the IB itself. The care taker was kind enough to give us rice, dal and omelette at night when he was already set to sleep.
For the breakfast, you must let the care taker know in advance because he prepares the food accordingly. As we planned to have our breakfast at Kibithu, so we decided against having breakfast at IB which was not a good idea
#Kibithu
Even though we started early, we eventually got late as under the thump of Royal Enfield we didn’t hear being stopped by checkers at the Walong check post. Eventually, we were stopped later and were asked to go back.
After wait of around an hour , checking of our permits etc. we were allowed to go to KIbithu.
I really don’t think I have words to describe the roads. They were smooth roads with the sceneries around as if they were not real. There was only a patch of 2km which was really bad and that because the main road and a bridge was broken in a slide otherwise the road is pretty smooth.
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| The rough patch |
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| Posing for the picture at Kibithu |
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| The amazing view, mountains, road and trees and wind |
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| Selfie time! |
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| The board says it all :) |
You might get chinese airtel signal in your phone. You wont be able to make any calls but in case you can, be careful of the international charges ;) and the security issues in case chinese are listening to your talks on the otherside :p
#Kibithu village
Maggi. momos, biscuits and tea are some of the things you can find in the village. From far you can also see the chinese villages. If you want to go to the army view point , you have to take permission from Army officials and chances are you would be denied as we were.:)
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| Maggi at Kibithu Village |
After visiting Kibithu, we returned back to Walong and our plan was to reach Tezu the same day but since it was already late, we decided to reach Hayuliang for the night.
#Hayuliang
This place doesn’t have much to offer. This was our stop over back from Kibithu and Walong. Beware, this place has only one hotel which is also not good at all hence you might want to plan your trip in such a way that Hayuliang is not a stop over for you
#Stay
Hotel Valley view for INR 500
Hayuliang-Dibrugarh-Jorhat
The next day morning, we left for Tezu, met our other rider who had by then got his bike fixed, and then immediately started for Dibrugarh.Stayed there at the same hotel(Hotel Kettekee) and next morning, we left for Jorhat and reached there in the evening. One of our bikes started giving some problem and we got it fixed from a local mechanic at Jorhat
Jorhat - Guwahati
At Jorhat, we planned to meet the “Forest Man” Jadav payang. He has grown his own forest on central goverment’s land. This forest now has a white tiger and few elephants. He over a period of time realized that Brahamputra river is taking over the island and hence he started growing bamboo to save the land. Over a period of 36 years he has now his forest expanded over 550 hectares of area.
Our salute to this amazing selfless, simple and down to earth man.
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| Posing with Mr. Payang |
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| Boat to take us to show Jadav ji's forest |
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| Yes its possible only in India!! |
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| Us and the bikes in Jadav Payang ji's forest |
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| Hard working people at work :p |
#Places to visit
Jadav Payang at Aruna Chapori situated at a distance of 5 km from Kokilamukh in Jorhat district
#Stay at Jorhat
Hotel Swagatham for INR 900 though you can find many other and better options (subject to availability)
#Food
MD’s in a market near Rajabari
And the last stretch was from Jorhat to Guwahati where we sent our bikes to Bangalore through Gati courier located at Abc Compound, Beharbari, Beltola,Guwahati Contact number 9678002875. It costed around 5500 per bike to send to Bangalore with 500 for packing per bike
